Its been one of those weeks where i have been absolutely battered by the surf. Now the tide has not been kind and i always seem to be going out on an outgoing tide/negative tide. The surf has picked up of recent its expecting to get upwards of 8-12ft+ (face) on sunday and its gonna hold for a while. Now i got pummeled on saturday (today) from super fast closeouts. Is there some sort of trick to taking off when i wave is closing out fast I mean i get into the wave but only to ride it for about 3 seconds and have a mountain close out on me and wipe me out something rotten. I thought it was just me bt i asked a round and observed a little and loads of people were getting tossed dragged and mullered by these fast closeouts, ugh.
Anyways if anyone has some good pointers id love to know.
Thanks.